Quick answer: stir paint until the colour and texture are the same from the top of the tin to the bottom, with nothing left stuck to the base. For a small tin, a hand stirrer or flat paddle is fine. For larger tubs of emulsion, masonry paint or anything thick, a steel mixing paddle in a drill at slow to medium speed does the job in a few minutes. Put the paddle in the paint before you switch on, keep the head below the surface, and clean it straight after use.
Paint separates as it sits on the shelf: pigment and solids settle, and the thinner liquid rises. This DIY Refurb guide explains which paddle to use, how to mix by hand and with a drill, how to avoid air bubbles and splashes, and how to fix common mixing problems.
Quick Menu
- What is a paint mixing paddle?
- Why mixing paint properly matters
- Which paddle do you need? (shank types explained)
- How to mix paint with a paddle, step by step
- Mixing different paints and coatings
- Safety and best practice
- Comparing paint mixing methods
- DIY Refurb mixing paddles and mixers
- Troubleshooting paint mixing problems
- Cleaning and storing your paddle
- FAQs
What Is a Paint Mixing Paddle?
A paint mixing paddle is a tool for stirring paint so that the pigments, binders and additives are evenly spread through the tin. Hand paddles are simply flat stirrers. Drill paddles have a shaped mixing head on a long steel shaft, and are designed to move the whole tin of paint, top to bottom, far faster than you could by hand.
The main types are:
- Flat hand paddles and stirrers: fine for small tins of gloss, eggshell, varnish or stain.
- Drill paint mixers: a steel paddle with a hex shank that fits a standard drill chuck. Ideal for 5L and 10L tubs of emulsion and masonry paint.
- Heavier general-purpose paddles: wider heads and longer shafts for deeper tubs and thicker materials such as filler, tile adhesive and plaster.
- Professional paddles with an M14 thread: made for dedicated paddle mixers, not drills. Used for mortar, render and plaster.
Why Mixing Paint Properly Matters
If paint isn’t mixed thoroughly you can get:
- Uneven colour, especially between tins or between the first and last coat from the same tin.
- Patchy sheen, with shiny and flat areas on the same wall.
- Poor coverage and streaks, because the solids are still sitting at the bottom of the tin.
- Reduced durability, since the finish won’t perform as the manufacturer intended.
Thorough mixing matters most with masonry paints, wood stains and preservatives, and any product where the manufacturer tells you to stir before and during use. Always read the instructions on the tin first: they take priority over any general advice, including this guide.
Which Paddle Do You Need?
The two things to check are the size of the job and the shank (the end that goes into your tool).
- 9mm or 10mm hex shank: fits a standard power drill chuck. This is what most DIYers need for paint.
- M14 threaded shank: screws onto a dedicated paddle mixer. It is not suitable for a standard drill chuck.
| Job | Suggested paddle | Fits |
|---|---|---|
| Small tins and shallow containers | Paint Mixer – 9mm Shank – 80 x 400 | Standard drill |
| 5L–10L tubs of emulsion or masonry paint | Paint Mixer – 10mm Shank – 100 x 600 | Standard drill |
| Paint, filler, adhesive, light plaster in deep tubs | General Purpose Mixing Paddle – 100 x 600mm or 120 x 600mm | Standard drill |
| Mortar, render, plaster and heavy mixes | Professional Mixing Paddle – 120, 140 or 160 x 600mm | M14 paddle mixer only |
TIMCO advises that its drill paint mixers are not suitable for very heavy mortar mixes. For those, use a professional paddle in a paddle mixer.
How to Mix Paint With a Paddle, Step by Step
- Protect the area. Mix on a dust sheet or outside, with the tin on a flat, stable surface. Drill mixing can flick paint further than you expect.
- Open the tin and check the paint. If there is a skin, cut round it and lift it out in one piece rather than stirring it in. Lumps of skin won’t dissolve and will end up on your wall.
- Loosen the settled layer. In a tin that has been stored a while, use a hand stirrer to break up anything stuck to the base before you start the drill.
- Fit the paddle. Push the hex shank fully into the drill chuck and tighten it securely.
- Put the paddle in first. Lower the head into the paint before starting the drill, and stop the drill before lifting it out. This is the single biggest way to avoid splashes.
- Start slowly. Run the drill at slow to medium speed. Move the paddle up and down and around the tin, working the base and the sides, until the colour and texture are uniform. Keep the head below the surface so you don’t whip air into the paint.
- Check it. Lift the stopped paddle out. The paint should run off smoothly with no streaks of a different colour, no lumps and no sediment on the base of the tin.
- Re-stir during the job. Some products settle again as you work. Give the tin a stir between coats, or whenever the instructions say to.
- Clean the paddle straight away. See cleaning and storing below.
Tip: mixing several tins of the same colour
If a wall or room needs more than one tin, pour them all into a larger clean container and mix them together before you start (decorators call this “boxing” paint). It evens out any small colour differences between tins, so you don’t get a visible change halfway across a wall. A 40L mixing tub is big enough for several 5L tins.
Mixing Different Paints and Coatings
- Emulsion: settles in storage, especially in larger tubs. A drill paddle on a slow setting is ideal. Browse our interior paints.
- Masonry paint: thicker and often textured, so it benefits most from drill mixing in 5L and 10L tubs. See our masonry renders and paints.
- Gloss, eggshell and satin: stir gently and thoroughly. Fast mixing can trap air bubbles that show up in the finish.
- Varnish: stir gently and slowly rather than shaking or fast-drilling, as bubbles show up clearly in a clear finish.
- Wood stains, oils and preservatives: pigment and active ingredients can settle, so stir well before and during use. See our wood stains, oils and primers.
- Two-pack paints: mix the base thoroughly first, then add the hardener in exactly the ratio stated by the manufacturer and mix again. Only mix what you can use within the product’s pot life.
- Thinning: only thin paint if the manufacturer allows it, using the thinner they specify and in the stated amount. Mix fully before you decide whether it needs thinning. See our paint thinners.
- Plaster, filler and tile adhesive: add powder to water (not water to powder) unless the bag says otherwise, and mix with a sturdier general-purpose paddle or, for larger batches, a paddle mixer. See our guide to the types of plaster used in renovation.
Safety and Best Practice
- Wear safety goggles and gloves when mixing. Add a dust mask when mixing powders such as plaster, render or adhesive.
- Hold the drill firmly with both hands where possible, and keep the tin from spinning: wedge it with your feet or ask someone to hold it.
- Keep the speed slow to medium. High speed splashes paint and adds air bubbles.
- Never start or stop the drill with the paddle out of the paint.
- Keep the cable clear of the tin and the paddle.
- Don’t use an M14 professional paddle in an ordinary drill chuck.
- Work in a well-ventilated area, especially with solvent-based products, and follow the safety information on the tin.
- Reseal tins tightly after use to stop skinning.
Comparing Paint Mixing Methods
| Method | Best for | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wooden stirrer | Very small tins, quick touch-ups | Cheap and simple | Slow; easy to leave sediment on the base |
| Drill paint mixer | 5L–10L tubs of emulsion and masonry paint | Fast, thorough, consistent | Needs a drill; can splash if run too fast |
| General-purpose drill paddle | Deep tubs, thicker paint, filler, adhesive | Longer shaft and wider head for bigger batches | More than you need for a small tin |
| Paddle mixer with M14 paddle | Mortar, render, plaster, large batches | Handles heavy mixes and large volumes | Bigger cost; overkill for most paint jobs |
DIY Refurb Mixing Paddles and Mixers
All the mixing paddles in our mixing paddles collection are steel TIMCO paddles.
For paint (standard drill)
- Paint Mixer – 9mm Shank – 80 x 400: 400mm shaft and 80mm head, 9mm hex shank. For paint, emulsion, filler, grout and tile adhesive.
- Paint Mixer – 10mm Shank – 100 x 600: 600mm shaft for deeper tubs, 10mm hex shank.
For paint, filler, adhesive and plaster (standard drill)
- General Purpose Mixing Paddle – 100 x 600mm – 9mm Hex Shank: for light to medium-viscosity materials.
- General Purpose Mixing Paddle – 120 x 600mm – 10mm Hex Shank: a wider head for medium to heavy materials.
For mortar, render and plaster (paddle mixer only)
- Professional Mixing Paddle – 120 x 600mm – M14 Shank
- Professional Mixing Paddle – 140 x 600mm – M14 Shank
- Professional Mixing Paddle – 160 x 600mm – M14 Shank: the largest in the range.
Power mixers
- Draper Storm Force Paddle Mixer – 80 Ltr x 1200W: for low-density materials such as paint, varnish, bitumen and joint sealing compounds up to 80 litres. Variable speed up to 680rpm with soft start, and a 120mm swirl paddle.
- 1400W Power Mixer: for plaster, mortar and floor screed, up to 120L, with variable speed and soft start.
Also useful
- Mixing Tub 40L and Round Mixing Tub 65L: for boxing several tins or mixing plaster.
- Paint brushes and rollers and rollers and trays.
- Dust sheets to protect floors while you mix and paint.
Troubleshooting Paint Mixing Problems
- Still streaky after mixing: keep going, and make sure the paddle reaches the base and edges of the tin. Sediment in the corners is the usual cause.
- Bubbles or foam on the surface: the drill was too fast or the paddle came near the surface. Let the paint stand for a few minutes so the bubbles rise and burst, then mix slower next time.
- Lumps or bits: usually broken-up skin or dried paint from the rim. Strain the paint, or decant from below the skin next time.
- Hard sediment that won’t mix in: loosen it with a hand stirrer before using the drill. If it still won’t break down, check the product is within its shelf life.
- Paint seems too thick: mix it fully first, as settled paint often looks thicker than it really is. Only thin it if the manufacturer allows, using the stated thinner and amount.
- Paint separates again quickly: some products need stirring during use. Stir between coats or as instructed.
- Colour differs between tins: box the tins together in a larger container before you start.
Cleaning and Storing Your Paddle
- Clean the paddle immediately after use, before the paint dries on it.
- For water-based paint, rinse in a bucket of water and scrub with a stiff brush. Avoid rinsing paint straight down the drain.
- For solvent-based paint, clean with the solvent the manufacturer recommends, then dispose of the dirty solvent responsibly.
- Dry the paddle fully before storing to prevent rust, and keep it somewhere it won’t bend.
- Dried-on paint, plaster or adhesive builds up and makes the paddle less effective, and can flake into your next tin.
FAQs
How long should I mix paint with a paddle?
Usually a few minutes with a drill paddle, longer for thick paint or a tin that has been stored for a long time. Stop when the colour and texture are uniform and there’s no sediment on the base.
Can I use a drill to mix paint?
Yes. Use a paint mixing paddle with a hex shank that fits your drill chuck, run it at slow to medium speed, and keep the paddle head under the surface.
What speed should I use?
Slow to medium. Fast speeds splash paint and whip air into it, which can leave bubbles in the finish.
Can I use a paddle for varnish or stain?
Yes, but stir gently, especially with varnish, to avoid bubbles. Always clean the paddle thoroughly between products.
Do I need to mix paint every time I open the tin?
Yes. Paint settles over time, even if you mixed it last time.
Can I use the same paddle for paint and plaster?
Our general-purpose paddles are designed for paint, plaster, adhesive and filler, but clean the paddle thoroughly between materials so nothing contaminates the next mix.
Will an M14 mixing paddle fit my drill?
No. M14 threaded paddles are made for dedicated paddle mixers. For a standard drill, choose a paddle with a 9mm or 10mm hex shank.
Should I shake paint instead of stirring it?
Shaking by hand doesn’t lift settled pigment from the base of the tin as well as stirring, and it can add bubbles. Stirring with a paddle is more reliable.
Final Thoughts
A few minutes with the right paddle is one of the easiest ways to get even colour, good coverage and a smooth finish. Choose a hex-shank paint mixer for paint in a drill, a general-purpose paddle for thicker materials, and save the M14 professional paddles for a paddle mixer.
Related Guides
- Complete Guide to Different Types of Paint and How to Choose the Right One
- What’s the Best Time of Year to Paint Indoors and Outdoors in the UK?
- Complete Guide to Protecting Windows, Floors & Stairs During Renovation & Decorating
- Types of Plaster Used in Construction and Renovation: A Complete Guide
