If you’ve ever taken a door handle off and ended up staring at a pile of screws, a square bar, and a mystery metal box in the door edge… you’re not alone. The good news: door handle parts are surprisingly logical once you know the names.
This guide walks you through every common door handle part name you’ll see in the UK—what it does, where it sits, how to measure it, and which bit usually fails when a handle starts “drooping”, sticking, or turning without opening the door.
Door Handle Anatomy (Outside vs Inside)
Most door handles are a combination of visible furniture (the handle you touch) and working hardware (the latch/lock inside the door edge). The handle turns a square bar (the spindle), which rotates a mechanism inside the latch or lock case, retracting the latch bolt so the door opens.
Think of it in layers (from your hand into the door)
On a typical internal lever handle, your hand pushes the lever. The lever is attached to a rose (round) or backplate (long plate). Behind that, a spring cassette or internal return spring helps the handle return level. Through the door runs the spindle. The spindle engages with the follower (the square hole) inside the mortice latch or lock case. The latch’s internal retractor pulls the latch bolt back into the door so it clears the frame’s strike plate (also called a keep).
External doors and uPVC doors often add extra layers: a cylinder (euro cylinder) and a multipoint mechanism, plus a measurable spacing between handle spindle and keyhole called the PZ distance—92mm is a very common UK size on modern uPVC multipoint handles.
Door Handle Parts Names (Full List)
Below is a practical “translation table” of door handle components—what they’re called, where you’ll find them, and what they do. (Names can vary slightly by brand and trade counter, but these are the most common UK terms.)
| Part name | Where it is | What it does |
|---|---|---|
| Lever (handle) | What you push down | Provides grip and turning force to operate the latch/lock |
| Knob | Alternative to a lever | Rotates to turn the spindle (less accessible than levers) |
| Rose (round rose) | Plate behind the lever/knob | Covers fixings and supports the handle base |
| Backplate | Long plate behind the lever | Houses fixings; may include keyhole/cylinder cut-outs |
| Escutcheon | Separate plate around a keyhole/cylinder | Protects the door surface and tidies keyhole/cylinder openings |
| Spindle (square spindle) | Runs through the door between handles | Transfers movement from handle to latch/lock follower; 8mm square is common in many UK handle systems (especially uPVC). |
| Split spindle | Some front/uPVC door setups | Allows outside handle to be “lifted/disabled” while inside still works (varies by lock type) |
| Follower | Square hole inside latch/lock | Receives spindle; turning it retracts the latch bolt |
| Spring cassette / return spring | Inside the handle base/rose | Returns lever to horizontal and stops “droop” |
| Grub screw (set screw) | Usually under the lever neck | Clamps the lever onto the spindle |
| Through-bolts (bolt-through fixings) | Pass through door thickness | Strong fixing method; often used on better-quality handles |
| Wood screws | Into the door face | Basic fixing method; can loosen over time in soft timber/MDF |
| Mortice latch (tubular latch or sashlock latch) | Metal case recessed into door edge | Main mechanism that holds the door shut and retracts when the handle turns |
| Latch bolt (spring latch) | Bevelled “tongue” that pops into the frame | Keeps the door closed; bevel helps it ride over the strike when shutting |
| Deadbolt | Locks (not simple latches) | Square bolt that throws into the frame for security (key/turn operation) |
| Forend (faceplate) | Visible plate on door edge | Covers the mortice cut-out; includes screw holes to hold latch/lock in place |
| Strike plate (keep) | On the door frame | Receives latch bolt/deadbolt; protects the frame timber from wear |
| Euro cylinder | External doors/uPVC doors | Key cylinder that locks/unlocks the mechanism (often a “profile cylinder”) |
| Thumbturn | Inside face of some cylinders | Lets you lock/unlock without a key from the inside |
| Bathroom turn & release | Bathroom/privacy sets | Thumbturn inside, emergency release outside (privacy, not high security) |
If you’re specifying or comparing handle quality, you may also see references to performance standards such as BS EN 1906, which covers lever handles and knob furniture performance requirements and test methods.
Common Door Handle Setups (Latch, Lock, Bathroom, uPVC)
1) Lever handle + tubular latch (typical internal doors)
This is the simplest and most common setup in UK homes. You’ll have a lever on a rose or backplate, a spindle through the door, and a tubular latch in the edge. The latch bolt is sprung, so it extends automatically when you close the door.
DIY note: if you’re replacing handles and keeping the existing latch, the biggest compatibility issues are usually spindle size, door thickness, and whether the new handle’s springing matches the latch action (cheap latches + heavy levers can cause droop).
2) Lever handle + mortice sashlock (keyed internal doors)
A sashlock combines a latch bolt (operated by the handle) and a deadbolt (operated by a key). The handle still turns a spindle to retract the latch, but the key throws the deadbolt for extra security. You’ll often see a “keyhole” cut-out on the backplate, or separate escutcheons above/below the handle.
3) Bathroom handle + bathroom lock (privacy)
Bathroom doors typically use a bathroom mortice lock with a thumbturn and an emergency release slot on the outside. Functionally, it’s similar to a latch but with a privacy bolt (not a security deadbolt). The handle still uses a spindle for the latch, while the thumbturn operates the privacy bolt.
4) uPVC door handle + multipoint lock (front/back patio doors)
uPVC door handles are often on long backplates and connect to a multipoint locking strip. The handle may lift to engage hooks/rollers, and a key/cylinder locks the system. When replacing uPVC handles, measurements matter: the most common reference is the PZ distance (centre of spindle to centre of cylinder/keyhole), with 92mm PZ commonly used on many modern multipoint systems.
How to Measure Door Handle Parts (Backset, PZ, Screw Centres)
Most “wrong part” purchases happen because one measurement is missed. Here are the key terms (and what they actually mean on a real door).
Backset (latch/lock)
Backset is the distance from the front of the lock/latch (at the door edge) to the centre of the spindle. In other words, it tells you how far into the door the spindle sits. This matters if you’re changing the latch/lock case or converting handle styles. :contentReference[oaicite:4]{index=4}
PZ distance (uPVC handles and some backplates)
PZ is the distance from the centre of the handle spindle to the centre of the keyhole/euro cylinder. It’s a must-know for uPVC multipoint handles, and 92mm is commonly referenced for many modern double-glazed door handles.
Screw centres (fixings)
Screw centres are simply the distance between fixing screws (centre-to-centre). On long backplate handles (especially uPVC), this is one of the main identifiers for a like-for-like swap.
Spindle size and length
Many lever handles and uPVC systems use an 8mm square spindle, but you’ll also see 7mm on some internal door sets and specialist sizes on certain locks/architectural hardware. If your handle is slipping, wobbling, or the lever is “free spinning”, the spindle (or the lever’s grub screw) is often involved.
Common UK Door Handle Sizes (Cheat Sheet)
Once you know the names, the next stumbling block is sizing. These are the measurements and “usual UK sizes” that cover the majority of internal doors and many uPVC/multipoint setups.
Tubular latch case sizes (internal doors)
Most internal lever handles operate a tubular latch (sometimes called a mortice latch in DIY guides). Latch “size” is typically the case length (overall latch body length), not the faceplate.
| Latch case length | Typical backset | Where you’ll usually see it |
|---|---|---|
| 64mm | ~45mm | Very common on internal doors (especially where handles sit closer to the door edge) |
| 76mm | ~55mm | Very common on internal doors (slightly “deeper” than 64mm) |
| 102mm | ~80mm | Less common; used where you want the handle further from the edge |
| 127mm | ~107mm | Occasional; often in older/joinery or special layouts |
| 152mm | ~130mm | Occasional; deep backset applications |
Quick rule: if you’re replacing an internal latch and want a like-for-like swap, match the case length first (64mm or 76mm are the most common), then confirm the backset.
Spindle (square bar) sizes
The spindle (also commonly searched as spindle bar or square bar) is the square shaft that runs through the door and turns the latch/lock follower. The key is matching thickness and length.
- 8mm spindle: very common on uPVC handles and many modern handle systems.
- 7mm spindle: also common, especially on some internal door handle sets.
uPVC / multipoint handle measurements (the “big two”)
For uPVC door handles on a long backplate, the two measurements that most often determine compatibility are:
- PZ (spindle centre → cylinder centre): 92mm is very common, but 62mm and 68mm also appear.
- Screw centres (fixing centres): common examples include 122mm, 165mm, 215mm (and others).
If you’re swapping a uPVC handle, measure PZ and screw centres first. If those match, you’re usually 80% of the way there (then confirm backplate length, spindle type, and whether it’s sprung/unsprung).
Parts That Fail Most (Symptom → Cause → Fix)
Door handles rarely “just fail” — one small component wears out first. Use the quick checks below to identify the culprit before you buy anything.
| Symptom | Most likely part | Quick test | Best first fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Handle droops (won’t return level) | Return spring / spring cassette (or worn follower) | If only one side droops, it’s usually that handle’s springing. If both droop, suspect latch/lock follower. | Replace the handle spring cassette (or fit sprung handles). If both sides droop, replace the latch/lock. |
| Handle turns but latch doesn’t retract | Loose grub screw, worn spindle, or broken follower | Check the lever’s grub screw. Pull the spindle: if rounded/twisted, it’s slipping. | Tighten/replace grub screw, replace spindle (cheap), then replace latch/lock if needed. |
| Wobbling handle / loose on the door | Fixings (wood screws stripped) or missing through-bolts | Try tightening screws. If they spin, the holes are stripped. | Upgrade to through-bolts if possible; otherwise repair holes and refit with correct screws. |
| Stiff handle (feels heavy/gritty) | Latch/lock case binding (internal wear) or a pinched mortice | Remove the spindle and operate the latch follower with a tool. If still stiff, it’s the latch/lock. | Replace the latch/lock case (often the fastest, cleanest fix). |
| Door won’t latch unless you lift/push | Strike plate / keep alignment (often hinge/door drop) | Close slowly and watch where the latch tongue hits the keep. | Adjust keep position; check/retighten hinges; only replace latch after alignment is ruled out. |
| Latch tongue sticks out or doesn’t spring back | Broken/weakened latch spring inside the latch case | Press latch bolt in by hand. If it’s slow/doesn’t return, the internal spring is tired. | Replace the tubular latch (don’t waste time trying to “revive” a worn spring). |
| Key hard to turn (external doors) | Cylinder misalignment, door drop, or dirty cylinder | Try turning key with door open. If it’s smoother open, alignment/door drop is likely. | Fix alignment first; then use correct dry lubricant; replace cylinder only if worn/damaged. |
Best DIY sequence: check fixings → check grub screw → inspect spindle → test latch/lock stiffness → check keep alignment. This prevents buying a full handle set when the real problem is a £2 spindle bar.
Maintenance & Lubrication (Stop Sticking & Handle Droop)
Most handle and latch problems come from friction, dirt, and small misalignments. A little preventative maintenance keeps doors feeling “new” and stops the classic stiff handle / sticking latch cycle.
What to lubricate (and what not to)
For latches, locks, and cylinders, use a dry lubricant where possible (it won’t attract dust in the same way oils can). On external doors, this matters even more because grit and moisture accelerate wear.
- Good options: PTFE dry spray (common all-round choice), graphite (traditionally used in locks), or a suitable silicone-based dry lubricant.
- Avoid as a “lock lubricant”: oily sprays that leave a wet residue (they can hold dirt/grit over time).
Quick maintenance routine (5–10 minutes)
- Check alignment first: if the latch hits the keep, lubrication won’t fix it. Adjust the strike plate/keep if needed.
- Handle action test: with the door open, press the lever 10–15 times. If it’s stiff even with the door open, suspect the latch/lock case.
- Lubricate the latch bolt: apply a small amount of dry lubricant to the latch bolt and the strike/keep contact points, then work the handle.
- Lubricate the cylinder (if present): a short burst of dry lubricant into the keyway; insert/remove the key several times and turn gently.
- Tighten fixings: snug up handle screws and grub screws (don’t over-torque and strip timber).
When lubrication isn’t the answer
If the latch bolt returns slowly, the handle feels “crunchy”, or the follower feels sloppy, the mechanism is often worn internally. At that point, swapping the tubular latch or lock case is usually the cleanest fix — and it immediately improves the feel of any handle.
Seasonal tip (UK): If an external door gets worse in cold/wet weather, check door alignment and keep position first. Temperature/moisture changes can exaggerate small misalignments that weren’t obvious in summer.
Common Door Handle Problems & Which Part Is to Blame
The handle “droops” and won’t sit level
This is usually one of three things: a weak or broken return spring (spring cassette), a worn follower in the latch/lock, or a latch that’s stiff—forcing the handle to fight the mechanism every time you use it. If both handles droop, suspect the latch/lock follower. If only one side droops, suspect the handle’s internal springing.
The handle turns but the latch doesn’t retract
Common causes include a rounded/worn spindle, a loose grub screw no longer gripping the spindle, or a broken follower inside the latch/lock case. If you can pull the spindle out and it looks twisted or chewed, replace that first—it’s cheap and often the culprit.
The door won’t latch unless you lift/push the handle
Often this is an alignment issue with the strike plate (keep) on the frame, a door that’s dropped on its hinges, or a latch bolt that’s dragging. Before changing hardware, check hinge screws, door gaps, and whether the latch bolt lines up cleanly with the strike.
Stiff handle / squeaking / grinding
Stiffness usually comes from the latch/lock mechanism rather than the lever itself. A worn latch can bind internally, or the door edge mortice cut-out may be too tight, pinching the case. If the latch is old, swapping it for a decent tubular latch can transform how the handle feels.
Replacing Parts: What You Can Swap Without Changing Everything
You can usually replace just the handle (keep the latch/lock) if…
The spindle size matches, the handle style suits the door (rose/backplate), and the existing latch is still healthy. This is common on internal doors where you’re upgrading the finish (e.g., chrome to matt black) without touching the latch.
You should replace the latch/lock at the same time if…
The latch is stiff, the follower feels sloppy, the handle droops despite a new handle, or you’re changing to a different backset. Backset is a key compatibility measurement if you’re swapping the actual latch/lock case.
What about the latch type?
If you’re working on internal doors, you’ll typically be choosing between a tubular latch (common, simple) and a mortice sashlock (latch + deadbolt). For many DIY refurb jobs, fitting a solid tubular latch with a clean action is the difference between a handle that feels “budget” and one that feels premium—because the handle is only as smooth as the mechanism it’s turning.
Tip: if you’re buying a replacement latch for a standard internal door, look for a quality tubular latch in a suitable size/backset for your existing cut-out, and match the forend finish to your handles (e.g., nickel, brass). If you’re already sourcing ironmongery, this is where it’s worth avoiding the very cheapest options.
FAQs
Do all door handles fit all doors?
Not automatically. The handle might physically cover the old screw holes, but compatibility depends on spindle size, door thickness, latch/lock type, and (for backplates/uPVC) measurements like PZ and screw centres.
What’s the difference between a rose and a backplate?
A rose is a small round (or square) plate just behind the lever. A backplate is a longer plate that can also incorporate a keyhole/cylinder cut-out, or a bathroom turn. Backplates are common where you want more coverage or where the lock layout demands it.
What does “PZ” mean on uPVC door handles?
It’s the measurement from the centre of the spindle to the centre of the keyhole/cylinder. 92mm PZ is widely used on many modern multipoint handle sets.
What is “backset” and why does it matter?
Backset is the distance from the front of the latch/lock (door edge) to the centre of the spindle. If you change the latch/lock case and the backset is wrong, the spindle and handle position won’t line up correctly.
Is there a standard for door handle performance?
Yes—handle and knob furniture is commonly specified and tested using standards such as BS EN 1906, which sets performance requirements and test methods for lever handles and knob furniture.
